Ten Days of Carnavales

I've got the carnaval blues.

How else could I after ten days party, noise, drink and dans.

It has been the best carnaval I've ever done, it will never be this big again, Bolivia is the number one for making it happen and I hope to maybe do it once again.

Oruro is the city with the biggest and finest carnaval in Bolivia, maybe in the world. For this week the town is dressed up in its most vibrant colors, it drags all Paceña beer out of every corner and draws spectators from all towns, cities and other countries.

Carnaval is a time that many people travel to their town of origin, in this week I've met many people that live in the big city but move to their town of birth to celebrate with family. It really fell to notice that many Bolivianos live in Buenos Aires, Argentinia.

Prices for acomodation are rediculous. Normally being 20 Bolivianos, now 150 to 200. They really take advantage of the need. So I looked around a little and found this room full with Argentinian and Chilien hippies where a spot on the grass-filled matresses was 25 Bolivianos.

Eventually I didn't sleep one night in this room. The first night I dragged my stuff to the roof to sleep three hours under the cold stars and after that I did not return to the place for two days. Partying, sleeping and doing what you have to do in other houses (altogether I did not sleep more then 10 hours in those three days).

Friday night it started with a brass band-blowoff.

I never made it there. I started the walk but in the first store where I informed if she had a pack of wine I met Victor, 50 or so. He was already half drunk (like many) and insisted that I would drink a bottle with better quality. A pack of sigarettes was added and for the next hours we walked the busy street together. Ah well, you just go through the motion sometimes.

A cd of a local band and a warm, VERY popular drink: Sucunbe, made with warm milk, grape liqour and coconut and cococa decorations, were added to the shared hospitality. Untill we reached the main plaza where his son was present with many friends. Being part of the group we host and hupst to the band that started playing. But it was all too busy and crowded for me. A good moment to leave and meet others.

I stayed in the streets untill 3am that night, pfff, if this is the beginning......

Saturday La Entrada starts around 8am ........ and ends around 4am the next morning.

No kidding, it really goes like that. The whole route staged with bleachers filled with people. Most of whom are just enjoying the parade. But in some parts there are more youngsters and so thats where the action was to be found.

In Latin America it's tradition to play with A LOT of water during carnaval and here it's in the form of little balloons: Globos. In those places with cheerfull teenagers there were true fights between one bleacher to the other. It was hilarous and of course I would participate with fever, buying many bags: five globos for 1 peso and being hit more then once. It was super fun.

Another super popular item to tease with was spraycan foam/fake snow. Especially right in your face, this one was less dramatic for the long term, but more fun to my opinion at the moment of action. And lets not forget the confetti.

So lets start the parade:

Morenada man.

Caporal ladies. Some being VERY sexy.

Many bands who really made the whole world stamp and sing to the traditional numbers with their type of group.

I'm not sure what those groups are called.

A Morenada clown.

One of the moments we were just hit by some flying foam.

The big end, el Socavon, where a massive crowd looked on to the best dances the groups could give. It was the place where cameras where installed to show the rest of Bolivia what they were missing. Here it all ends with a blessing in the famous church of El Socavon. But the atmosphere was tranquile and not very exciting, mainly families that were watching.

So I returned to the main plaza where it was much more energetic and that's where I stayed.

Here you see the Tinkus. Absolutely my favorite groups, their clothing, their dance, so much energy, so much force.

And then, when it ends at 4am, the band keeps playing a few hours more untill it's about 7am and the new day starts.

It all ended around 5am for me that session, but soon I was part of the crowds again.

A new day with precisely the same routine. Yes, again the parade starts at 8am and ends at 4am. Again many globos are thrown and many beers are drank. The only difference today being that the crowd AND the dancers and band members are a lot more merry with A LOT more alcohol. It was amazing how some orkest members could still hit the right rithm.

Lady filling globos for the whole day. Oruro is pretty cold at night and it was beautiful to notice that there was enough respect from all kids to not throw after dark.

So this second day we were more bold, we spend most time on the other side of the fence, feeding the parade-members beer, playing their instruments, dancing alongside of them (they all have their significant steps) and wearing their masks or hats.

Being a little different then others and a woman I had the best time ever, many headcovers found my laughing face, many band members dragged me along in the parade, the sexy girld shook their booties, the sexy boys came down and offered kisses and bells, the traditional groups darred me for a dance and the public threw many globos, yelled and gave me as well beers.

I have to be honest, it was FANTASTIC to be different today.

Suri man.

And then came the Tinkus, this time being on the other side of the fence I could dance with them and had the best time. I really jump just like them. Many applauds came from the crowds. The rest of the day I was waiting for the second Tinkus parade. There would be another session with them.

Again I would dance along and felt the need to walk with them, it was already midnight or so. It was a crazy party by then. It had rained, we were dirty and super happy.

At the end, waiting to enter El Socavon, the band played to finish the song, my favorite Tinku group gave it an extra forse and danced the last steps of their four and a half during parade. I danced crazy along (there were few people here) and panted for breath with this 3700m altitude.

There we were, one of the guys came right up and gave me a scarf, others asked me questions. Photo's were made and they waited untill I had recovered my camera as well. Then I was pulled into the group, dressed in cape and hat and photographed as well.

I'm in the left bottom.

It was SO cool. The last two blocks were danced and I was pulled right into the group to dance with them. Also they asked me to dance with them in a parade in La Paz, but I won't be here in June, really a shame. Then they also urged me to go onto El Socavon, but I did not dear to, not knowing all the passes and having the opinion that it needs to stay traditional, without dancing gringos amidst the well dressed groups.

I did get invited to the Tinku party in another palce though. Here I was decorated with more scarfs, a chuspa (cocabag), a Huaraca (stone thrower), plumes and many appreciating nods. They ate some, and danced just more and more and more. Me too, but not for long, my stomach was REALLY upset, it being in cramps and ending in water, so my absolute exhausted body needed to take it easy, 5am.

Sleeping in a house with made-friends I did not find rest after 8am, and so I got up, dressed and made it to the hotel for the first time sins Saturday afternoon. Most hippies had left, it was empty. I took a shower, organized some things, made new bells on my bag, got my photo's on my harddisc and left in the afternoon for Tupiza.

I did not get further then Huari, a little town two hours South. Just getting dark, I found a hostal with a normal price, a tea with a normal price and another carnaval parade but of very small size. I could not be bothered and left for bed.

Tuesday it just happened that I did not move anywhere. I wrote my diary, talked to the locals, watched the four bands playing in the towns square and the clowns dance in train. Huari is also the place for the Huari beer factory, so I did drink one beer to try it.

Wednesday it was time to hitch to Uyuni, but absolutely NOTHING passed on this desolated road and I did not want to wait untill the nightbus at 9pm. So I decided to go another route: first to Potosi, then Tarajia and on to Tupiza.

A ride to where the highway carries more trafic and a camion was spotted:

'On the way to where?' 'To Potosi. And you honey?' 'Potosi as well. Is there space?' 'Sure, but not in the truck, you're going with us in the pickup.'

Along the way I met the bandmember of LASER. Aperently pretty famous in especially Oruro. It was all bold talks, defiant questions and brought laughs. It always amazes me how I fit in what ever position, with whomever and where ever.

Just somewhere we turned off the road and I was told that they would first go to this little town to play a concert. O, Ok. It was another two hours along a rough road down into a lower valley to Tinguipaya:

Being in the town it was made clear that they would be here for five days!!!!! Well, there would be a bus to Potosi tomorrow, so lets enjoy the new way of going.

First a meal, we were with 15 man, seven band members, one tourleader and the rest helps to build the stage and guard at night.

Then we build this huge stage with everyone, I helped more then they would have thought and was questioned how I got so many muscles.

A small town with maybe 200 people is the center of activity for five days. Little streets only for walking are filled with all sorts of people, up to 1500, that have left but still stay true to where they were born (or their parents).

So the case with this party is that the town is split in three groups: the Diamantes (us), the Corazones (right beside us) and the Machay (on the other side of the big rock a five minute walk). Then the music starts. Well, music..... The Diamantes and Corazones both have 26!!!!!!! speakers each and REALLY try to play for the loudest, can you emagine it? It was crazy, RIGHT beside eachother....... and this for FIVE days, from 3pm untill 2am.

It all starts with a dance: The boys and girls make files and danse in train formation their dance-steps, it's this jumping step that leaves your one leg feeling sore.

All pretty fun ..... but for five days! The band had their sessions of music, one typical song was played every hour for maybe 15 minutes and many other songs were repeated over and over again. At least it was all pretty ok to dance to, lots of Chichanga.

One of those moments I met the handsom Talavera Family:

I hang out with them a lot and was invited to eat a fresh goat- grill at grandma's house one afternoon:

We lighted some fireworks, something that happened the whole day thru, everywhere:
The Sunday was probably the best day because everyone dressed up in funny clothes.

O, let's not forget that besides the big bands there are also the little local brass bands to fill in the little holes where the music was just dieing down.

Many man dressed up like woman and the funny thing is that the city girls dress up like the local Cholitas and many Cholitas as the traditional Tinkus. Very typical.

I too, had my Talavera family dress me up as a Cholita. Totally complete with Polera (rok), Mandil (schort), Tulmas (hairtuffs), hat and cape. We have to be honest: I look more like a witch then a Cholita:

The dance starts ....... again:

And the WHOLE day people walk around with buckets of pigfood, o no, it's puke. Wrong again. It's delicious (ehum) chicha, a fermented corn drink. Just close your nose, take a breath and slurp. I must have had a bucket full in those five days.

One of the nights:

The band would eat and take breaks at Lucy's place. This absolutely very nice Cholita cooked the best meals for us, especially het Lawa was delicious. I helped her out when ever I could.

Peeling havas and beans for three hours:

As well on the last day (it was the only reason I stayed untill the end) there is a huge come-together of the Tinkus, the traditional people in this area.

They come down with their charangas:

The woman in their best woven works. It's to show everyone what they can. Absolutely impressive:

The young girls make the best of thier appearance because they are looking for a man. To make this aperent and to get the attencion they wear little mirrors on thier clothes and hats.

Very shy, laughing behind their hands, not dearing to look:

So we partied more and more, this last day untill the early Monday morning.

Many people were decorated and confettied for their precense, their alegria, I was lifted too and had to promise to come back next year.

I was done just before sunrise, slept a few hours, packed my bag and left while the band was still palying at 9am!

It took me an hour to say goodbye to all the people I had met, absolutely everyone knew the only gringa of the party.

We had so many laughs:

Bye bye Tinguepaya.

I was happy to leave, my ears pieped and tuuted, I was really done with the stupid drunk people and I was tired of the rain (we had a lot but kept dancing). But boy am I happy I know this place and it's best party. I would not have wanted to miss it for the world.

Mucho mucho saludes con cariño a todo: Las familias, el grupo 'Laser', Lucy con sus comidas deliciosas y muchos otros. Wow, un otro año, con mas sol, ya me vuelvo.