Argentina Mate's to my Home

I THOUGHT I had just one more day in San Lorenzo, but as it turned out it became (yet) a few more. Not only did I have a problem with my money (it got stolen and I had to find a way to get some for my last two weeks), but also my ankle was still very bad and people tried to help me in every way.

On advice from Mami I went to a curandedor, armed with coca, cigarettes, alcohol, llama fat, special seeds, minerals, opal, lavender, thyme and a bag with mandarines, chocolate and rice to pay the guy (you should not give money) I visited Iris' uncle and was cleaned from 'la tierra'. There is no way of explaining this, unless you understand something like 'mother earth' and that she has bad spirits as well who can invade your body or soul. You actually do that yourself, you invite them. I learned a lot and watched carefully how he used everything in an offering, listening to his soft wispered chantings and prayers, the smoke that was used to purify and clean my sore parts and my mind. Absolutely interesting. The days after, my ankle felt absolutely better, but shamely enough it went bad again.

These are the things I had to buy at the witchdocters market in town.

But then it was time, time to get going.

It was hard to say goodbye and I truly hope to have another visit to San Lorenzo in my lifetime.

The boarder was only a three hour busride away, I started to hitch but soon was forced to walk. A huge demonstration was going on in the last four days and the whole road was littered with roadblocks made by the farmers who wanted more money. The three hour trip took me two days! Lot's of waiting, 9 rides, way more money, new friends along the way .... a real Bolivian adventure.

And then, finally, I entered Argentina. I have to admit that I did not make too many photo's. I did a lot of hitch hiking, drove through an autumn landscape of browns, yellows and reds. The temperature was warm in the day and cool in the night. Some of the landscapes we incredible, absolutely widely, immens, outstretched. It all reminded me a lot about the USA, including the hospitality of the people.

I had to cry too. The western world with its modernity, it's unneeded luxeries, so much waste, so much unnessesary services. It was difficult, I became very quiet at first.

Can you belive me that I truly forgot that we have warm water coming from the tap in our kitchen!!!!!!!

I slept for the last times in remote mountains, here in the beautiful area of Cafayate. Met really really hospitable and friendly people, friendly in a very different way. There is just more money that can be spend.
A land-famous icon in Argentina is Gauchito Gil. Three times they told me his story and what I get out of it is that he is like The Robin Hood of 30 years ago. He stole from the rich to give it to the poor. Many places along the road are dressed in red flags and rags with a littel house where you can burn candels and ask him to forfill your wishes.
Upon arrivel in Cordoba I called a friend of a friend, who had no idea who I was or that I was coming, and got some more true argentina friendlyness. The hous with youngsters was all open doors and learned me how to make fresh pasta The second night we made a good bonfire in the backyard before we headed out to the discos in the dance quarted. It became a super late night, and when we returned home at six thirty in the morning I decided to hit the road straight away, without sleep. I made it all the way to Buenos Aires that day.

My last truck driver was another talker, listener and helpful hand. We were relaxed with each other straight away and the time and landscape flew by. Upon arrivel I did not get a hold of my Bolivian friend so we made a nice 'Bife a la criollo' in the truck and slept beside eachother ...... he in his truck, me in my tent.

The next morning he woke me the most Argentina way, with a mate. Mate is a fruit which gets dried, opened, hollowedout and made into cups, with carvings, pieces of leather or metal and maybe a stand because the bottom is often round. The herb they use for this bitter tea is finely cut branches and leaves of the mateplant. Most people mix it with some sugar. The mate gets filled, hot (NOT BOILING) water gets pored on, the herb sucks the water, you poor a little more and so some extra water is floating around. This gets sucked out with a bombilla (straw) of metal with little holes. Even if you are with ten people, still only one mate is used. The water always goes into a thermos form which you poor little by little sips and share the mate around. I think many of you will understand I LOVED this particular tradition of Argentina.

And then my time in Buenos Aires started. Initially just one day, but because a wrong flight scedule through my company I missed my plane and got booked two day later. The first night strolling around I met Javier. And those three days we spend together, sightseeing around town, enjoying the incredible tango culture in the plazas, drinking mates in the parks, eating Sandwiches de Vacio (the meat in Argentina IS good, very tender), chatting, watching photo's and cooking meals.

It was a very special meeting, we both learned a lot about subjects that are still a curiosity.

Sandwich de Vacio

The grave of Eva Peron.

And then it really was time to get my ass to Europe. It was a ten hour flight to Mexico City where I slept at the airport in my sleepingbag, had a wonderful day strolling around the city eating taco's and started the 11 hour flight to London.

London, Buckingham palice with the Big Ben. We did make a stroll along a few of the famous sights, me and my friend and her boyfriend. Ineke and I had met nine years ago in New Zealand, she's from Holland, Joe is from England. It was wonderful wonderful to catch up with her. Way to little time to talk and watch photo's.

My last hitch before home went from London to Stonehenge to the ferry that takes you to France and on to Belgium and into Holland.

Stonehenge, a world herritage site, build 3000BC, is a little blown up in my opinion. The stones are bigger then you think, the rope is too far away to really appreciate that, and the most mindboggling thing is how they got thos 'blue stones' all the way from Whales, 240 miles away, to this magic, curing or special place. The questions is what makes the place.

Back to three-lane Dutch highways.

Home sweet home.

My feet could go on the table, I was free to open the fridge, everything could be told in confidence, tea in abundance, my teddybear slept in my arms and my mum was without worry for two whole nights. Things got told, shown and shared, my dad cooked wonderfull meals, I biked through my hometown (I can still bike) saw many friends of my parents, called my own and made another attempt to pack my bag for a last hitch through Europe. Yes, tomorrow I will be off to Denmark, to my best friend Marie with who I'm gonna dance like the devil at a one week festival and then to go hitching around. It all doesn't matter, she has her last exam tomorrow, me a 8 hour hitch, then the adventers and relaxing can start.